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Humans often wear articles
of clothing (also known as dress,
garments or attire) on the body (for
the alternative, see nudity). In its broadest sense,
clothing includes coverings for the torso and limbs
as well as coverings for hands (gloves), feet (shoes,
sandals, boots), and head (hats, caps).
Articles carried rather than
worn (like purses and umbrellas) normally count as
accessories rather than as clothing.
Humans also decorate their
bodies with makeup or cosmetics, perfume, jewelry
and other ornament; cut, dye, and arrange their head,
face and body hair (hairstyle), and sometimes their
skin (tattoo, scarifications, piercing). All these
decorations contribute to the overall effect and message
of clothing, but do not constitute clothing per se.
People wear clothing for functional
and/or social reasons. Clothing protects the body;
it also delivers social messages to other humans.
Function includes protection
of the body against strong sunlight, extreme heat
or cold, and precipitation; protection against insects,
noxious chemicals, weapons, contact with abrasive
substances -- in sum, against anything that might
injure an unprotected human body. Humans have shown
extreme inventiveness in devising clothing solutions
to practical problems.
Sociology
Social messages sent by clothing,
accessories, and decorations can involve social status,
occupation, ethnic and religious affiliation, marital
status and sexual availability, etc. Humans must know
the code in order to recognise the message transmitted.
If different groups read the same item of clothing
or decoration with different meanings, the wearer
may provoke unanticipated responses.
- Social status: in many societies,
people of high rank reserve special items of clothing
or decoration for themselves. Only Roman senators
could wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple; only
high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs could wear feather
cloaks and palaoa or carved whale teeth. In many
cases, there were elaborate systems of sumptuary
laws regulating who could wear what. In other societies,
no laws prohibit lower-status people wearing high
status garments, but the high cost of status garments
effectively limits purchase and display. In current
Western society, only the rich can afford haute
couture. The threat of social ostracism may also
limit garment choice.
- Occupation: military, police,
firefighters usually wear uniforms, as do workers
in many industries. School-children often wear school
uniforms, college and university students wear academic
dress. Members of religious orders may wear uniforms
known as "habits". Sometimes a single item of clothing
or a single accessory can declare one's occupation
and/or status -- for example, the high toque or
chef's hat worn by a chief cook.
- Ethnic, political, and religious
affiliation: In many regions of the world, national
costumes and styles in clothing and ornament declare
membership in a certain village, caste, religion,
etc. A Scotsman declares his clan with his tartan;
an Orthodox Jew his religion with his (non-clothing)
sidelocks; a French peasant woman her village with
her cap or coif.
- Clothes can also proclaim
dissent from cultural norms and mainstream beliefs,
as well as personal independence. In 19th century
Europe, artists and writers lived la vie de Bohème
and dressed to shock: George Sand in men's clothing,
female emancipationists in bloomers, male artists
in velvet waistcoats and gaudy neckcloths. Bohemians,
beatniks, hippies, Goths, punks and Skinheads continued
the (counter-cultural) tradition in the 20th century
West. Now that haute couture plagiarises street
fashion within a year or so, street fashion may
have lost some of its power to shock, but it still
motivates millions trying to look hip and cool.
- Marital status: Hindu women,
once married, "wear" sindoor, a red powder,
in the parting of their hair; if widowed, they abandon
sindoor and jewelry and wear simple white
clothing. Men and women of the Western world may
wear wedding rings to indicate their marital status.
See also Visual markers of marital status.
- Sexual availability: Some
clothing indicates the modesty of the wearer. For
example, many Muslim women wear a head or body covering
(hijab, bourqa or burka, chador, abaya) that proclaims
their status as respectable women. Other clothing
may indicate flirtatious intent. For example, a
Western woman might wear extreme stiletto heels,
close-fitting and body-revealing black or red clothing,
exaggerated make-up, flashy jewelry and perfume
to show sexual availability. What constitutes modesty
and allurement varies radically from culture to
culture, within different contexts in the same culture,
and over time as different fashions rise and fall.
Moreover, a person may choose to display a mixed
message. For example, a Saudi Arabian woman may
wear an abaya to proclaim her respectability, but
choose an abaya of luxurious material cut close
to the body and then accessorize with high heels
and a fashionable purse. All the details proclaim
sexual desirability, despite the ostensible message
of respectability.
Because clothing and adornment
have such frequent links with sexual display, humans
may develop clothing fetishes. They may strongly prefer
to have sexual relations with other humans wearing
clothing and accessories they consider arousing or
sexy. In Western culture, such fetishes may include
extremely high heels, lace, leather, or military clothing.
Other cultures have different fetishes. For many centuries,
Chinese men desired women with bound feet (see footbinding).
The men of Heian Japan lusted after women with floor-sweeping
hair and layers of silk robes. Fetishes vary as much
as fashion. Sometimes the clothing itself becomes
the object of fetish, such as in case with used girl
panties in Japan.
Clothing materials
Common clothing materials include:
- Cloth
- Down for down-filled parkas
- Fur
- Leather
Less common clothing materials
include:
- Bark
- Paper
- Rubber
- PVC
- Nylon
Reinforcing materials such
as wood, bone, plastic and metal may be used to stiffen
garments such as corsets, bodices, or swimsuits.
Clothing maintenance
Clothing, once manufactured,
suffers assault both from within and from without.
The human body inside sheds skin cells and body oils,
and exudes sweat, urine, and feces. From the outside,
sun damage, damp, abrasion, dirt, and other indignities
afflict the garment. Fleas and lice take up residence
in clothing seams. Well-worn clothing, if not cleaned
and re-furbished, will smell, itch, look scruffy,
and lose functionality (as when buttons fall off and
zippers fail).
In some cases, people simply
wear an item of clothing until it falls apart. Cleaning
leather presents difficulties; one cannot wash barkcloth
(tapa) without dissolving it. Owners may patch tears
and rips, and brush off surface dirt, but old leather
and bark clothing will always look old.
But most clothing consists
of cloth, and most cloth can be (laundered) and mended
(patching, darning) (but compare felt).
Humans have developed many
specialized methods for laundering, ranging from the
earliest "pound clothes against rocks in running stream"
to the latest in electronic washing machines and dry
cleaning (dissolving dirt in solvents other than water).
Mending has become less common
in these days of cheap mass-manufactured clothing
-- people may prefer to buy a new piece of clothing
rather than to spend their time mending old clothes.
But the thrifty still replace zippers and buttons
and sew up ripped hems.
Early 21st-century clothing
styles
Western fashion has to a certain
extent become international fashion, as Western media
and styles penetrate to all parts of the world. Very
few parts of the world remain where people do not
wear items of cheap mass-produced Western clothing.
Even people in poor countries can afford used clothing
from richer Western countries.
However, people may wear ethnic
or national dress on special occasions; or if carrying
out certain roles or occupations. For example, most
Japanese women have adopted Western-style dress for
daily wear, but will still wear expensive silk kimonos
on special occasions. Items of Western dress may also
appear worn or accessorized in distinctive, non-Western
ways. A Tongan man may combine a used T-shirt with
a Tongan wrapped skirt, or tupenu.
Western fashion too does not
function monolithically. It comes in many varieties,
from expensive haute couture to thrift-store grunge.
Mainstream Western or international
styles
- International standard business
attire -- global in influence, just as business
functions globally.
- Haute couture
Regional styles
- Clothing of Europe and Russia
- Clothing in the Americas
- United States mainstream
fashion
- For example: bland Sears
catalogue fashion, regional styles such as preppy
or Western wear.
-
- United States alternative
fashion
- These fashions are often
associated with fans of various musical styles.
-
- Clothing in Asia
- Clothing in Africa
- Clothing in Oceania
Religious habits and special
religious clothing
- Christian liturgical clothing
(vestments)
- Christian clerical clothing
(non-liturgical dress)
- Christian monastic habits
- Buddhist monastic dress
- Orthodox Jewish dress
- Hindu religious dress
- Muslim religious dress
Origin and history of clothing
Prior to the invention of clothing,
mankind existed in a state of nudity.
The earliest clothing probably
consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped,
wrapped or tied about the body for protection from
the elements. Knowledge of such clothing remains inferential,
since clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared
to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists
have identified very early sewing needles of bone
and ivory, from about 30,000 B.C., found near Kostenki,
Russia in 1988.
Mark Stone, an anthropologist
at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology,
has conducted a genetic analysis of human body lice
that shows they first evolved only 72,000 ±
42,000 years ago. Since most humans have very sparse
body hair, body lice require clothing to survive,
so this suggests a surprisingly recent date for the
invention of clothing. Its invention may have coincided
with the spread of modern Homo sapiens from the warm
climate of Africa, thought to have begun between 50,000
and 100,000 years ago.
Some human cultures, like the
various peoples of the Arctic Circle, until recently
made their clothing entirely of furs and skins, cutting
clothing to fit and decorating lavishly.
Other cultures have supplemented
or replaced leather and skins with cloth: woven, knitted,
or twined from various animal and vegetable fibres.
See weaving, knitting, and twining.
Although modern consumers take
clothing for granted, making the fabrics that go into
clothing is not easy. One sign of this is that the
textile industry was the first to be mechanized during
the Industrial Revolution; before the invention of
the powered loom, textile production was a tedious
and labor-intensive process. Therefore, methods were
developed for making most efficient use of textiles.
One approach simply involves
draping the cloth. Many peoples wore, and still wear,
garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped
to fit -- for example the Scottish kilt or the Javanese
sarong. Pins or belts hold the garments in place.
The precious cloth remains uncut, and people of various
sizes can wear the garment.
Another approach involves cutting
and sewing the cloth, but using every bit of the cloth
rectangle in constructing the clothing. The tailor
may cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth,
and then add them elsewhere as gussets. Traditional
European patterns for men's shirts and women's chemises
take this approach.
Modern European fashion treats
cloth much more prodigally, typically cutting in such
a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants.
Industrial sewing operations sell these as waste;
home sewers may turn them into quilts.
In the thousands of years that
humans have spent constructing clothing, they have
created an astonishing array of styles, many of which
we can reconstruct from surviving garments, photos,
paintings, mosaics, etc., as well as from written
descriptions. Costume history serves as a source of
inspiration to current fashion designers, as well
as a topic of professional interest to costumers constructing
for plays, films, television, and historical reenactment.
Future trends
As technologies change, so
will clothing.
- Man-made fibers such as
nylon, polyester, lycra, and Gore-Tex already account
for much of the clothing market. Many more types
of fibers will certainly be developed, possibly
using nanotechnology. For example, military uniforms
may stiffen when hit by bullets, filter out poisonous
chemicals, and treat wounds.
- "Smart" clothing will incorporate
electronics. Clothing may incorporate wearable computers,
flexible wearable displays (possibly leading to
fully animated clothing and some forms of invisibility
cloaks), medical sensors, etc.
- Present-day ready-to-wear
technologies will presumably give way to computer-aided
custom manufacturing. Harmless laser beams (usually
white light) will measure the customer; computers
will draw up a custom pattern and execute it in
the customer's choice of cloth.
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