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Fashion design is the applied
art dedicated to the creation of wearing apparel and
lifestyle. Please see also Fashion for a more complete
definition.
The first person who could really be considered as
a Fashion designer was Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895).
Before he set up his maison couture (fashion house)
in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled
by largely anonymous seamstresses. When he started
his business, his customers could attach a name and
a face to his designs once they learned that they
were from the House of Worth, thus starting the tradition
of having the designer of a large company is not only
the creative head but the symbol of the brand as well.
After Worth, Paul Poiret started with a concept which
is nowadays considered as general fashion design/
marketing and Haute Couture, and is also credited
with starting the trend of removing the corset from
female fashion. Although fashion itself has a long
history which leads back to the early civilisations,
the people who designed and produced garments before
the late 19th/early 20th century were seen as anonymous
artisans, not well-known public figures.
Following in Worth's and Poiret's footsteps were:
Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher,
Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Hand in hand with
clothing, haute couture accessories evolved internationally
with such names as Guccio Gucci, Thierry Hermès,
Judith Leiber, and others.
By the 1960's, haute couture was not the only trend
dictator anymore. Under influence of Fashion Icons
(like for example Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and
Jackie Kennedy or the models like Twiggy), Youth culture
and the independent women's movements, it became acceptable
for fashion to ascend from the people rather than
be handed down by large couture houses.
Fashion brands not only just produced garments anymore
but also started to create their own image or started
designing for certain target groups and/or sub cultures.
Vivienne Westwood for example "created”
the image which is now generally considered as Punk.
The Trend dictation of the Old Couture Houses was
over.
Modern fashion design and
designers
Modern fashion design is roughly
divided into two categories, haute couture, and ready-to-wear.
A designer's haute-couture collection is meant exclusively
for private customers and is custom sized, cut and
sewn. To qualify as an official "haute couture"
house, a designer or company must belong to the Syndical
Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based body of designers
governed by the French Department of Industry that
includes American, Italian, Japanese, and other designers
as well. A haute couture house must show collections
twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in
each show. It is often shown on the catwalk and in
private salons.
Ready-to-wear collections are not custom made. They
are standard sized which makes them more suitable
for larger productions. Ready-to-wear collections
can also be divided into designers/createur collections
and Confection collections. Designer/createur collections
have a high quality, a superb finish and a unique
cut and design. These collections are the most trendsetting
compared to Haute Couture and Confection. Designer/createurs
ready to wear collections contain often concept items
that represent a certain philosophy or theory. These
items are not so much created for sales but just to
make a statement. The designer's ready-to-wear collection
is also presented on the international catwalks by
people who do fashion modeling.
Confection collections are the ones we see most commonly
in our shops. These collections are designed by stylists.
The brands that produce these collections aim only
for a mass public and are in general not searching
for new grammar for the language or a new point of
view on/of fashion.
Although many modern fashion designers work in a "traditional"
way -- making clothes that are fancy and expensive,
but still based on standard/traditional construction
and design concepts -- some designers have broken
these "rules" over the years. These include
some now-deceased designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli,
who worked in the thirties, forties, and fifties;
Japanese designers Yojhi Yamomoto, Comme des Garcons,
and Junya Watanabe from the early eighties to the
present; and designers from the mid-nineties onward.
Fine examples of modern-day "rule breakers"
are Martin Margiela and Warmenhoven & Venderbos.
These designers approach clothing, Fashion and lifestyle
from new angles and explore also the boundaries of
Fashion itself in order to create "new"
concepts and views for fashion design. Their collections
are not only restricted to garments (ready to wear
as well as couture) and other fashion-related products,
but also contain work in other media. The works of
this breed of designers can also be placed in a certain
Art movement.
Most fashion designers attend an Academie of fine
arts. Fashion design courses are considered applied
arts just like graphic design and interior design.
The types of fashion designer -- stylist versus designer
-- are often confused. A stylist inspires his/her
designs on existing things, trends and designers collections.
A designer starts from scratch; he/she develops a
unique concept and translates this into garment collections,
other lifestyle related products or a statement in
various other types of media. Some designers approach
their work just as a fine arts painter or sculptor.
Inspiration for fashion designers comes from a wide
range of things and cannot be pinpointed exactly.
However, just like all artists, they tend to keep
an eye on things going on world-wide to inspire themselves
towards making their future clothes lines.
Most fashion designers are well trained pattern makers
and modeleurs. A typical design team is made up out
one or more: designer(s), pattern maker(s) /modeleur(s),
sample maker(s), buyer(s) and salesman (men). For
presentations and catwalk shows the help of hair dressers,
make-up artists, photographers modeling agencies,
the model and other support companies/professions
is called upon.
As fashion became more and more a large business,
designers also began to license products. (For example:
perfume, bags and all sorts of products).
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